Bon Bon Shrimp

Bon Bon Shrimp has led informative and opinionated tours of the Chinatowns in Manhattan and Queens for decades. Years ago, a staple of his Szechwan cooking class was Bon Bon Chicken, a zippy main course that fused East and West. This version is updated a bit—and includes shrimp, of course. Served at room temperature, it is a wonderful summer dinner, a simple luncheon entrée, or even a great midnight snack. MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS OR 2 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS:

Two 2-ounce packages dried bean thread noodles
1 pound large shrimp (about 12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled
1⁄4 cup toasted sesame oil
3 tablespoons peanut butter
2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons black vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon chili oil, or to taste
1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste
2 large cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced

PROCEDURE:

1. Place the noodles in a large bowl and cover them with boiling water. Set aside to soften for at least 15 minutes.

2. If using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 5 minutes. Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon or a strainer; place them in the ice water to chill. Drain the shrimp and blot dry with paper towels. Set aside.

3. Whisk the sesame oil, peanut butter, soy sauce, black vinegar, sugar, chili oil, and pepper in a medium bowl until completely smooth.

4. Drain the noodles and rinse them with cold water. Squeeze them with your hands to remove as much excess water as possible. Place the noodles on a large serving platter. Mound the sliced cucumber on top of the noodles, and lay the shrimp on top. Drizzle the platter with the sauce and serve immediately.

BON BON SHRIMP AND CRAB Reduce the shrimp to 1⁄2 pound. Mound 1⁄2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the shrimp.

BON BON SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS Reduce the shrimp to 1⁄2 pound. Mound 1⁄2 pound sea scallops, cut in half and cooked with the shrimp.

COCONUT BON BON SHRIMP Whisk 1⁄4 cup unsweetened coconut milk with the sesame oil.

CRUNCHY BON BON SHRIMP Use crunchy peanut butter, and add 1⁄4 cup unsalted peanuts with the sesame oil.

SAVORY BON BON SHRIMP Substitute flavored oil, such as black pepper oil or basil oil, for the sesame oil.