Shrimp Bisque

The traditional French preparation, rather than the modern New Orleans version. When first introduced in France in the 1750s, a bisque was a shellfish purée added to quail or pigeon soups as a flavor enhancer, much the way pesto is sometimes swirled into Mediterranean soups. In the nineteenth century, French aristocrats began to enjoy this thickener on its own, with cream added, to make it a full course. Serve this creamy, velvety soup with a loaf of crusty bread and a vinegary salad of tomatoes, celery, and toasted pecans. MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, shells reserved
6 cups fish stock or 4 cups vegetable stock plus 2 cups clam juice
2 large shallots, minced
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1⁄2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons dry vermouth
1⁄4 cup minced chives

PROCEDURE:

1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large saucepan or pot over medium heat. Add the reserved shells and cook, stirring constantly, until they turn pink, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the stock, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and simmer for 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in another large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring constantly, until softened, about 2 minutes.

4. Add the flour to the shallots and whisk until it is completely incorporated into the melted butter. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Do not allow the mixture to brown.

5. Strain the shrimp stock into the pan with the shallots and whisk until the soup thickens, about 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they are pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

6. Purée the soup, in batches if necessary, in a food processor or blender until completely smooth. Rinse out the pan, return the soup to it, and whisk in the paprika, nutmeg, and cream. Bring the soup back to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often.

7. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the vermouth and chives; serve immediately.

CURRIED SHRIMP BISQUE Omit the paprika and nutmeg. Add 2 teaspoons curry powder with the cream.

HERBED SHRIMP BISQUE Omit the paprika and nutmeg. Add 3 tablespoons chopped parsley, 2 teaspoons chopped tarragon, and 1⁄2 teaspoon minced thyme with the shallots. If desired, top each bowl of soup with 1 teaspoon (or more) flavored oil, such as basil oil or black pepper oil.

HOT HUNGARIAN SHRIMP BISQUE Omit the nutmeg. Substitute 1 to 2 teaspoons hot Hungarian paprika for the sweet paprika, and add 1 teaspoon dry mustard with the cream.

NEW ORLEANS SHRIMP BISQUE Add 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper with the cream, then add 1⁄2 cup diced celery and 1⁄2 cup diced green bell pepper; cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes.

SHRIMP BISQUE WITH CLAMS Add 12 medium clams (such as cherrystone or Pacific littleneck), scrubbed, with the cream. Cover and cook over low heat until the clams open, about 7 minutes.

SHRIMP BISQUE WITH MUSSELS Add 1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded, with the cream. Cover and cook over low heat until the mussels open, about 5 minutes.

SHRIMP VICHYSSOISE Cook 2 pounds new potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes, in the stock-and-shallot mixture until they are tender, then add and cook the shrimp. Omit the paprika and increase the vermouth to 1⁄2 cup. Chill the soup thoroughly, for at least 8 hours. Serve cold in small cups.