fragrant sauce

This is a surprising combination of French technique and Southeast Asian sensibilities, has long been considered a harbinger of good luck (and an aphrodisiac) by many Vietnamese. Bowls of fluffy white or nutty brown rice will help cut the heat—but it’s best to avoid a rice with an intense aroma, like jasmine, since the point of the dish is the fragrant sauce. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS:

3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled
6 garlic cloves, minced
21⁄2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1⁄4 cup canned or homemade, chicken stock
3 tablespoons Caramel Syrup (recipe follows)

PROCEDURE:

1. Set a large wok or skillet over medium-high heat and allow it to heat thoroughly, about 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the raw shrimp, if using, and cook, stirring constantly, until pink and firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl and set aside.

2. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the wok and set it back over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until it begins to brown, about 1 minute. Immediately add the pepper and cook for 10 seconds.

3. Raise the heat to high, add the fish sauce and chicken stock, and bring to a boil. Add the caramel syrup and stir constantly until the syrup dissolves in the sauce, then return the sauce to a boil.

4. Add the cooked shrimp. Toss and stir until the sauce is bubbling and the shrimp are heated through, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.